Sunday, March 29, 2009

Dégustation

A weekend of dégustation (tasting) that included a little sample of different cultures and ways of life as well as some old favorites.

Hidden on a Parisian side street, nestled among tall trees rests a stunning Japanese pagoda, built by the former director of the Bon Marché department store during the height of European infatuation with all that came from the East. Today it serves as a teahouse and cinéma, where Friday night a few of us went to see 'Welcome' a new film about illegal immigrantion, where people (étranger en situation irrégulièr) cross France with the hopes of getting to England. A moving, tear inducing piece that I recommend to all (fellow French residents, its playing at your local theatre, home friends, check any french film festivals in your area).

Saturday it was some volunteer time at an english book sale benefitting an english organization here in Paris, a dusty, and somewhat hectic afternoon. One of my favorite moments was a conversation with a french woman discussing children's lit, trying to pick out appropriate works for an english language learner. It was definitely nostalgic to get in touch with my childhood picking through Judy Blume, Beverly Cleary, American Girl series, and of course the Babysitter's Club. I also walked away with a few...even though I have no time to read them or anywhere to put them :) After a quick nap and quick scan of my newly acquired treasure it was off to Czech Night at Vero's house! It was a night to sample/taste a bit of Czech cuisine and beverage, I am in love with Babovka, a cake dessert that I hope to duplicate one day...

The foray into the wonderful world of sampling continued today when Gabo, Maria and myself spent the evening at the wine expo here in Paris. You arrive, pay 3 euros, get a glass and spend hours wandering from stall to stall, sampling different wines, chatting with vendors about their regions, years and particular tastes...well Maria did, I just nodded, pretending to be cultured, while twirling my glass around (holding the base of course). The warm, fuzzy feeling I had by the end of our tour allowed me to walk away with a bottle of fabulous bubbly (would have been a lot more bottles if I had the room in my bag...) All in all, an evening well spent, and we decided to be on the look out for more of these in the future, yum :)

xxoo

Saturday, March 21, 2009

Grève...liberté, egalité, fraternité, un reve general

France is somewhat infamous for its preferred method of showing discontent: the strike.

This past week we had another round of general lack of public transport, spotty mail delivery and the all important manifestations (protests). However, during these particular days of discontent (they're were grèves a little earlier this year as well), it hit a little closer to home, namely the university I attend.

Background: France prides itself on an equality of access to education and has many public universities that most young French citizens attend, BUT there exists the type of 'grands écoles' such as SciPo that are a little harder to get into and are a kind of mix of public and private funding, employ many profs from outside professions, making it a little more unique, and some would say elitist. For example, during grèves universities usually don't have class because students and profs are on strike, but SciPo goes on with business as usual.

So that brings us to this past week. The security at the main entry to uni had been tightened up lately, checking ID cards and whatnot, but Tuesday and Thursday, students from the other public universities in Paris stopped by, flooded the entryway, protesting the lack of equality in education, entered the main lecture hall (boutmy), and started discussions, banner waving, and general chanting. The student population was 'evacuated' and classes were canceled for the rest of the evening.

Videos below for some of the action :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s-FktSIR3vE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1vbubjwrc-Q
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xv2rgDUhXpI

la reve generale ;)

xxoo

Printemps et Pique-nique

The sun and spring have arrived in Paris. I have now gone an entire week wearing only my light coat sans scarf, I mean I was actually almost TOO warm the other day...

So of course, one must 'profiter' or make the most of the good fortune, hence as much time outdoors as possible, and even when indoors, gazing longingly out the window. But also organized fun in the sun is a must, so it was a lovely saturday afternoon with a picnic in the park buttes chaumont, complete with fabulous friends, excellent conversation, and of course food and drink (along with some excellent bubbly, thank you Joyce and Richard!) I especially enjoy sharing specialties from home, such as whip cream that we did use mostly for the strawberries (yay strawberry season) but also for the tip the head back and spray a nice whirl into the mouth trick. Admittedly it was mostly the americans who were enjoying (thanks for joining me, Em), but still I know the rest went home with plans of trying the same :)

Then it was an evening meal to bid adieu to Peter who will be heading off to another internship in England soon. He and Clara made an amazing Austrian dinner for everyone, which I have plans to try and duplicate soon.

All in all, well fed and a bit tired from being in the sun all afternoon, I will sleep soundly, xxoo



Monday, March 16, 2009

Las Falles, la playa, y paella

An old friend was visiting what basically amounts to family in Valencia,a lovely town on the Mediterranean sea during a huge festival, las falles, and invited me down for the weekend, and I never refuse free room and board so it was off to Spain again! ;)

Friday night, after a flight in one of the smallest planes I have ever had the pleasure of boarding (so small that you bring your luggage to the tarmac to then be put in the hold) I arrived in Valencia to meet up with Martin and Marian, and we were off to the streets of the city, which were glowing under the lights of las Falles.

Las Falles is a celebration of St. Joeseph, (that was refreshingly non-touristy, as I literally only heard Spanish except for Martin's moments of rapid translating) when artists called falleros create huge sculptures that can be anything from cute and cuddly to scorchingly satiric pieces made from wood and paper maché that are as high as 8 to 10 meters, which are set up all over the city (it was amusing to walk around a corner and suddenly come across, for example, a three stories high broadway singer). There is also a great deal of fireworks both done by professionals and your neighbor (at times it literally sounded like a war zone, or felt like one as you never knew when someone was going to light a fuse next to your feet), bands playing, churros stands open all night, and gazing upward at the falles. You may be asking where all these art pieces go after the end of the week of festivities. Well after viewing with oohing and ahing, they are (drum-roll please) subsequently burned to ash in what is known as la cremà. Not kidding, these structures costing up to 1 million euros, are burned during the last days of las falles in a glorious display of fireworks and flames, except one which is voted to be saved and kept in the museum of Valencia. Unfortunately (or maybe fortunately) I was unable to stay until the last days, so will only keep memories of towering monoliths of colorful fancy.


one of the larger falles, a close up of some detail from another one, and one of the young ladies in traditional Valencian clothing (each falle has a girl who represents the art)

But Valencia is much more than simply the building and destruction of huge artworks, it is also a beach city, which Marian made sure we enjoyed my second day. After a trip to the market, we watched la mascleta, which is basically a huge fireworks show, mid-day in the town center to celebrate, an event that is not about the colorful lights, but moreso volume (which they accomplished perfectly as I was definitely suffering from a little ear-ringing post show).


crowds and smoke at la mascleta

Then we hopped on a bus to eat paella by la playa. It was a fantastic lunch, followed by a short frolicking in the water (well I frolicked, the boys sat in the shade and Marian patiently took pictures for me) Then a nice siestà before more las falles gazing, church visiting and bunelos eating (a special donut made at this time, from I believe a pumpkin like gourd). Then a dinner of tortilla espangola and ham at Marian's home with her son Carlos and another of her friends from Spain. The boys did an excellent job translating during dinner (I speak no spanish and Marian only a little english...we got by with lots of gesturing all weekend) Then it was off for a night of fun with Carlos and his Valencian friends (again they spoke a bit of english, so gesturing, smiling, and nodding became my standby for the night). The weekend finished with last minute faellas and market visiting and watching fireworks from Marian's balcony (they set off fireworks when each falle is completely finished).


la playa (beach, see I learned a bit while there) outside the restaurant where Maria treated us to an amazing lunch of paella; putting my feet in the sea (it had been too long since I had felt sand between my toes) and myself (wearing my Valencian scarf) and Marian, the most lovely of hostess a girl could possibly ask for

All good times must end, and so this morning it was an early taxi ride to the airport and back to Paris (and class, which starts in half an hour!) Muchas gracias to Marian, Carlos and Martin for a fabulous weekend and thanks to everyone back home who was praying I would not catch on fire :)

much love, xxoo

Thursday, March 12, 2009

les arts

After a harrowing weekend of exposé prep and various other academic strain, it was time to work a different side of the brain.

The UC center here in Paris had sent out an email about tickets available through a local school for the ballet, le parc, at the opera. Now I had seen a few ballets before but this was supposed to be a more modern feel and the seats wouldn't be quite SO high. So a few other sciencespo girls and I slipped on the cute shoes and enjoyed an evening at the ballet. It was beautiful piece (and our seats were fantastic for the price), making for an absolutely lovely time, if a little envy inducing (as usual, I feel a little bit more un-graceful after seeing the dancers literally float across the stage). But an evening at Palais Garnier is always well spent.

Then a few days later it was on to the cinema! Séraphine, a french film about early 1900s art, recently won several César awards (the French equivalent of the Oscars) and hence was being re-released throughout France. We took advantage of some student discounts and spent the evening trying to keep up with the dialogue. Again, loved the somewhat tragic (it is a bit necessary for the french films to have that tristesse) but beautiful, and everyone didn't die!

Hoping to make more room for the arts and musées in the last few months here, especially after April (please note, fellow under 26ers, all museums in Paris are FREE to us after I believe April 4th)